Ko te kakahu tātari whatu me te kakahu tātari kore whatu (e mōhiotia ana ko te kakahu tātari kore whatu) he rauemi matua e rua i roto i te mara tātari. Ko ō rāua rerekētanga taketake i roto i te tukanga hanga, te āhua hanganga, me ngā āhuatanga mahi e whakatau ana i tā rāua whakamahinga i roto i ngā horopaki tātari rerekē. Kei roto i te whakatairite e whai ake nei ngā āhuatanga matua e ono, me ngā horopaki e tika ana me ngā taunakitanga kōwhiringa, hei āwhina i a koe ki te mārama ki ngā rerekētanga i waenga i ngā mea e rua:
Ⅰ .Ngā Rerekētanga Matua: Te Whakataurite i roto i ngā Ahu Matua e 6
| Ahu Whakataurite | Kakahu Tātari Whatu | Kakahu Tātari Kore-Whatu |
| Tukanga Hanga | I runga i te "whiriwhiringa o te miro whatu me te miro whatu," ka whatua ngā miro whatu (roa) me te miro whatu (whakapae) mā te whakamahi i tētahi mea whatu (pērā i te mea whatu hau-rere, i te mea whatu rapier rānei) i roto i tētahi tauira motuhake (ma, twill, satin, me ētahi atu). Ka kiia tēnei he "hanga whatu". | Kāore e hiahiatia he miro, he raranga rānei: ka hangaia tika ngā muka (te mea hanga matua, te miro rānei) i roto i tētahi tukanga e rua ngā taahiraa: te hanganga tukutuku me te whakakotahitanga tukutuku. Ko ngā tikanga whakakotahitanga tukutuku ko te hononga wera, te hononga matū, te wero ngira, me te hononga wai, ka waiho tēnei hei hua "kore-whatu". |
| Te āhua o te hanganga | 1. Hanganga Auau: Ka whatua ngā miro whenu me ngā miro whatu hei hanga i tētahi hanganga mārama, rite tonu te rahi me te tohatoha o ngā pore. 2. Te ahunga kaha mārama: Ko te kaha o te whenu (whakaroa) he nui ake i te kaha o te whatu (whakapae); 3. He maeneene te mata, kāore he muka e kitea ana. | 11. Hanganga Matapōkere: Ka whakaritea ngā muka ki tētahi tauira koretake, āhua matapōkere rānei, ka hanga he hanganga toru-ahu, puhuruhuru, he pūwero hoki, he whānui te horapa o te rahi o ngā pūwero. 2. Kaha Isotropi: Kāore he rerekētanga nui i roto i ngā ahunga o te miro me te whatu. Ka whakatauhia te kaha e te tikanga here (hei tauira, he kaha ake te papanga werohia ki te ngira i te papanga herea wera). 3. Ko te mata he paparanga muka puhoi, ā, ka taea te whakarite ngāwari i te matotoru o te paparanga tātari. |
| Te mahi tātari | 1. Te tino tika me te ngāwari ki te whakahaere: He pūmau te whakatuwheratanga o te mata, he pai mō te tātari i ngā matūriki totoka o tētahi rahi motuhake (hei tauira, 5-100μm); 2. He iti te pai o te tātari tuatahi: Mā ngā āputa mata ka taea e ngā matūriki ririki te uru, me hanga he "keke tātari" i mua i te whakapai ake i te pai; 3. He pai te tango i te keke tātari: He maeneene te mata, ā, he ngāwari te taka atu i te keke tātari (toenga totoka) i muri i te tātari, kia māmā ai te horoi me te hanga anō. | 1. Te pai o te tātari tuatahi: Ka ārai tika te hanganga pūwero-toru-ahu i ngā matūriki ririki (hei tauira, 0.1-10μm) me te kore e whakawhirinaki ki ngā keke tātari; 2. Te pumau koretake o te tika: He whānui te tohatoha o te rahi o ngā pore, he ngoikore ake i te papanga whatu i roto i te tirotiro i ngā rahi matūriki motuhake; 3. Te kaha pupuri puehu teitei: Ka taea e te hanganga puhoi te pupuri i ngā poke maha atu, engari he ngawari te whakauru o te keke tātari ki roto i te āputa muka, ka uaua ai te horoi me te whakaora. |
| Ngā āhuatanga ā-tinana me ngā āhuatanga ā-mīhini | 1. Kaha Teitei me te Ātete Pai ki te Waro: He pumau te hanganga whatu o te whenu me te whatu, he ātete ki te totoro me te waro, ā, he roa te ora mahi (mai i ngā marama ki ngā tau); 2. Te Pūmautanga Ahu Pai: Ka ātete ki te whakarerekētanga i raro i te pāmahana teitei me te pēhanga teitei, e pai ai mō te mahi tonu; 3. Te Āheinga Iti o te Hau: Nā te hanganga matotoru kua rarangahia, he iti noa te āheinga hau/wai (rahinga hau). | 1. He iti te kaha, he iti hoki te ātete ki te pakū: Ka whakawhirinaki ngā muka ki te here, ki te whatuwhatu rānei hei whakau, ka ngawari ai te pakaru i roto i te wā, ā, ka poto te roa o te ora (he maha ngā rā ki ngā marama). 2. Te pūmautanga o ngā āhuatanga ngoikore: Ka mimiti haere ngā papanga e piri ana ki te wera ina pāngia e ngā pāmahana teitei, ko ngā papanga ia e piri ana ki te matū ka memeha ina pāngia e ngā whakarewa. 3. Te urunga hau teitei: Ka whakaitihia te ātete wai e te hanganga puhuruhuru, pūwero hoki, ā, ka whakanuia te rere o te wai. |
| Te Utu me te Tiaki | 1. Te utu tīmatanga nui: He uaua te tukanga raranga, inā koa mō ngā papanga tātari tino tika (pērā i te raranga satin). 2. He iti te utu tiaki: Ka taea te horoi me te whakamahi anō (hei tauira, te horoi wai me te horoi whakamuri), me te whakakapi i ētahi wā. | 1. Utu tīmatanga iti: He māmā noa te hanga i ngā mea kore-whatu, ā, he tino pai te whakaputa. 2. Te utu tiaki nui: He ngāwari ki te aukati, he uaua ki te hanga anō, ā, he maha ngā wā ka maka atu, ka whakakapia rānei, ka nui ai ngā utu whakapau mō te wā roa. |
| Ngāwari Whakaritenga | 1. Ngāwari iti: Ko te whānui me te matotoru o ngā pore e whakatauhia ana e te matotoru o te miro me te matotoru o te raranga. Me hanga anō te tauira raranga hei whakarerekē, he mea e pau ana i te wā. 2. Ka taea te whakarite i ngā whatu motuhake (pēnei i te whatu paparua me te whatu jacquard) hei whakarei ake i ngā āhuatanga motuhake (pēnei i te ātete totoro). | 1. Ngāwari Teitei: Ka taea te whakarite tere i ngā hua he rerekē te tika o te tātari me te uruhanga o te hau mā te whakarerekē i te momo muka (hei tauira, te polyester, te polypropylene, te muka karāhe), te tikanga whakapiri tukutuku, me te matotoru. 2. Ka taea te whakakotahi me ētahi atu rauemi (hei tauira, te paninga) hei whakarei ake i te ātete wai me ngā āhuatanga ārai-piri. |
II. Ngā Rerekētanga o ngā Horopaki Taupānga
I runga i ngā rerekētanga mahi kua whakahuatia ake nei, he tino rerekē ngā whakamahinga e rua, e whai ana i te mātāpono o te "pai ake i te tika i ngā papanga whatu, me te whakatairanga i te whai hua i ngā papanga kore-whatu":
1. Kakahu tātari whatu: He pai mō ngā āhuatanga "tātari roa, pumau, tino tika"
● Te wehenga totoka-wai ā-ahumahi: pērā i ngā mīhini tātari pereti me te anga me ngā tātari whitiki (te tātari i ngā konganuku me te paru matū, e hiahia ana kia horoia me te whakahoutia anō);
● Te tātari hau paipa pāmahana-teitei: pērā i ngā tātari putea i roto i ngā ahumahi hiko me te maitai (me ātete ki te wera me te ātete ki te kakahu, me te roa o te ora ratonga mō te iti rawa i te kotahi tau);
● Tātari kai me te rongoā: pērā i te tātari pia me te tātari tangohanga rongoā tuku iho Hainamana (me whai rahi pūmau te pūwero hei karo i ngā toenga poke);
2. Kakahu tātari kore-whatu: He pai mō ngā āhuatanga "tātari poto, tino whai hua, iti te tika"
● Te purenga hau: pērā i ngā tātari horoi hau o te whare me ngā pāpāho tātari matua o te pūnaha HVAC (me nui te kaha pupuri puehu me te iti o te ātete);
● Tātaritanga whakakorekore: pērā i te tātari-mua o te wai inu me te tātari matotoru o ngā wai matū (kāore e hiahiatia kia whakamahia anō, ka whakaiti i ngā utu tiaki);
● Ngā tono motuhake: pērā i te tiaki hauora (te kakahu tātari mō te paparanga o roto o ngā kopare kanohi) me ngā tātari hauhautanga motuka (me tere te hanga me te utu iti).
III. Ngā Taunakitanga Kōwhiringa
Tuatahi, Whakaritea te "Roanga o te Mahi":
● Te mahi tonu, ngā āhuatanga taumaha (hei tauira, te tango puehu 24-hāora i roto i te wheketere) → Kōwhiria te kakahu tātari whatu (he roa te ora, kāore e hiahiatia he whakakapinga pinepine);
● Te mahi ā-wā, ngā āhuatanga iti te kawenga (hei tauira, te tātari iti-rōpū i roto i te taiwhanga) → Kōwhiria te kakahu tātari kore-whatu (he iti te utu, he ngāwari te whakakapi).
Tuarua, whakaarohia ngā "Whakaritenga Tātari":
● Me whakahaere tika te rahi o te matūriki (hei tauira, te tātari i ngā matūriki i raro i te 5μm) → Kōwhiria te kakahu tātari whatu;
● Me "pupuri tere te paru me te whakaiti i te paru" anake (hei tauira, te tātari paru matotoru) → Kōwhiria he kakahu tātari kore-whatu.
Hei whakamutunga, whakaarohia te "Taupānga Utu":
● Te whakamahinga mō te wā roa (neke atu i te 1 tau) → Kōwhiria te kakahu tātari whatu (he nui te utu tīmatanga engari he iti te utu katoa o te mana pupuri);
● Ngā kaupapa poto (i raro i te 3 marama) → Kōwhiria te kakahu tātari kore-whatu (he iti te utu tīmatanga, ka karo i te moumou rauemi).
Hei whakarāpopototanga, he otinga roa te kakahu tātari whatu me te "whakangao nui me te pakari teitei", ko te kakahu tātari kore-whatu he otinga poto me te "utu iti me te ngāwari teitei". Kāore he hiranga, he ngoikore rānei i waenganui i ngā mea e rua, ā, me whiriwhiri i runga i te tika o te tātari, te huringa whakahaere, me te tahua utu o ngā tikanga mahi motuhake.
Wā tuku: Oketopa-11-2025